Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Lost in San Jose Costa Rica

Walking through the crowded streets, employees in the store fronts would call out through a microphone like an auctioneer to attract any curious bystanders. Along the road front motorcycles would zoom by and vehicles would hit the horn as if it were a Jeopardy buzzer. 

Focused on getting to our destination, we would briefly look down at the map to reorientate ourselves.  



"About where are we?"

"Okay, two more blocks and then we take a left and walk that way for a while."

Chet, Karen, and I landed in San Jose Costa Rica late the night before. After what felt like a nap, we were off early the next morning to get to the bus depot. We had to get to the Caribbean town of Puerto Viejo. It's a five hour bus ride from San Jose and is the easiest town to cross the border into Bocas Del Toro Panama; our next destination. 

After studying the map, we traversed our way to the bus station successfully . Seeing the bus saying Puerto Viejo, we went to purchase our bus ticket. 

"Uno boleto para Puerto Viejo." (One ticket for Puerto Viejo.)

The lady at the register looked at us and wrote down Mepe and handed us the paper. The three of us looked at the piece of paper and looked at each other with confusion. 

"It says Puerto Viejo on the bus schedule, I don't understand why we can't buy a ticket," said Chet. 

"The bus says Puerto Viejo out front and it's obvious that were at the bus station."

Asking another ticket seller, she proceeded to say something in Spanish. Looking at each other again, and then processing what the lady told us, we realized that we were in the wrong spot. After we asked a bus driver to point on the map where the Puerto Viejo bus terminal was, it turns out there is a bus station not labeled as a bus station a few blocks away. 

Sitting down to take a momentary break we see another Caucasian family with backpacks and two young daughters obviously confused. They would walk to the bus that said Puerto Viejo, look down at their book, look up, turn around and walk away, turn back and do the same thing. 

Wanting to help them out, I walked over and called out, "are you heading to Puerto Viejo?"

The mother looked at me as if I were another person approaching to sell her something and said no and kept walking. The husband hearing me said yes. Hearing their accents I immediately knew they were German. Looking down at their German Costa Rica guide book reconfirmed it. I felt like Sherlock Holmes. 

I then proceeded to tell them that we are in the same predicament and that they too were at the wrong bus station. Consulting their book, the husband looks up at me and in his German accent said, "that cannot be. This is the only bus station on the map and those buses say Puerto Viejo. We only want to get to the Caribbean for our vacation."

Trying to help them again, I explain that there is another Puerto Viejo and that this isn't the right one. The husband skeptical of the idea said they would consult the it over food. Leaving them there I headed back to Chet and Karen. 

Upon making it to the other bus depot, we were just in time. We bought our tickets, hopped on the bus and then left. Just outside of San Jose it started pouring rain. Windshield wipers on at full speed, our bus driver was determined to stay on schedule. 



Through the dense jungle we sped along on the two lane highway. The bus rocking back and forth like a boat and leaking like one, we looked out at the countryside. The bus driver getting behind a semi that was too slow would downshift and proceed to pass only to slip back into the lane to miss oncoming traffic. 




After a long day of traveling, we were stoked to get off the bus. Grabbing our bags from the stowage compartment, we were immediately soaked. Walking through the warm rain, we found our way to a hostel glad to be done traveling for the day. 

Saturday, January 24, 2015

Lost In Translation

Taking a turn off the busy gray brick street into the warehouse like building didn't allow us to escape the chaos. As we sniffed around like hounds for the best food, people tried to herd us like cattle into their little food booths. 

Waving their menus or shouting out, a person would yell, "tamales!"

From behind we would hear, "Mole! Quesadillas! Chile Rellenos!"

Karen sitting outside on the sidewalk

Oaxaca color - blues and yellows

Cruising 


We (Chet, Karen, and I) are now in Oaxaca city known for it's large open markets, indigenous cultures, Mezcal tequila, and it's cuisine such as molĂ©, grasshoppers, and chocolate. As we walked through their food market that is an acre in size, we had a hard time deciding where to go. Allowing our noses to guide us, we decided to go to what looked like the busiest place. 

Stepping into the adjacent warehouse, a fire alarm would have had a heart attack because the air was so heavy with smoke. Walking down the isle, on either side were barbecues and slabs of different meats with mesquite coals glowing dark red. As people fanned them, the smoky heat blew into me like a Santa Ana wind.

The smoky warehouse with all of the meats and barbecues


Over the busy food court Chet yelled, "let's eat here!"

"Sounds, good man! How does it work though?!"

"I don't know! I guess we will find out!"

Walking over to a booth area with veggies we soon figured out how it worked. A lady explained in Spanish and handed us a large wicker plate with veggies and pointed over towards the barbecue stations.

"Did either of you get that?"

"Nah, but I think we take the veggies over to one of the barbecue places."

Dancing through the crowd, we handed one of the barbecue booths our plate of veggies. The man told us something in Spanish. We got the gist that he wanted us to point toward some of the raw meats. As he explained what each cut and seasoning was, we just pointed blindly and hoped for the best. The man threw the slabs of meat onto the grill then directed us to the seating area. 

Dancing back through the crowd, Chet exclaimed, "I have no idea what we just ordered. I just pointed."

Getting directed into a booth like a plane by an air traffic controller, we all sat on one side of the booth seat. Soon three other Mexican fellows got directed to the seat opposite us. Sitting like a family would at a diner, all six of us sipped our Mexican Cokes and smiled knowing that we couldn't have a conversation. 

Sucking my Coke dry, our wicker plate showed back up with our veggies, a stack of tortillas, and a mound of meat. 

"Guys we ordered a lot of food."

"We should of ordered for two, or for one even."

"I think that's a kilo and a half of meat."

As we struggled to finish our mound of food, one of the Mexican fellows across from us said, "la comida es bueno, no?" (The food is good, no?)

I looked up from my taco, smiled and said, "El comida de Mexico es el mejor!" (Mexican food is the best!)

He chuckled and kept eating his food. Trying to make room in our stomachs, we ate our last bit of food. Getting up from the booths, one of the ladies ran over to us worried that we weren't going to pay. Handing her some money, we headed out of the smoky warehouse back onto the busy street. 

"Dude, that was bomb."

"I know."


Some more Oaxaca color and street life:









Friday, January 23, 2015

Getting Out Alive

With a gentle awakening, "hey man, how are you feeling?"

"Better," I said.

"Do you think you can make it to the airport?"
"Yeah... I think so."

"Alright go hop in the shower, you have thirty minutes to pack."

It was roughly 5:45am that Tuesday morning when I hopped in the shower. Pulling off my clothes that smelt strongly of sweat infused with garlic, I felt like Hercules compared to the day before.

During the previous night I came down with some sort of sickness. Possibly a bad case of Montezuma's Revenge or even Salmonella. Perfect timing for my flight leaving the next morning. I laid in bed that day too sick to stand. Too weak to talk. It was the sickest I'd ever been in my life.

I wasn't the only one however. The entire town seemed to be getting sick at varying degrees. Many of the surfers in the Mexi Log Fest were getting sick too; some even had to go home early. So when I was well enough to shower that morning I felt like I was somehow escaping the zombie apocalypse.

Still feeling weak, I carried my bags down the dimly lit street to the bus station at the edge of town. Setting my backpack in the dirt, I paid the thirty-five pesos to take the bus to Puerto Vallarta then shuffled into my seat. Looking around the interior of the bus, the faded teal paint was slightly pealing off. At the front of the bus was a stencil of Jesus' face and two stars.

The diesel Mercedes engine lurched to a start. The bus rocked gently between shifting gears. Noticing speed bumps ahead in the dim halogen headlights and trying to process the current speed of the bus, I concluded that we weren't slowing down. Hitting the speed bump the bus jumped and the shocks squeaked. The bus was getting air. No one seemed to be phased and we continued to hit speed bumps in the same manner. Leaning back in my seat, I looked out the window and watched the sunrise as I made my way to Puerto Vallarta thankful that I was feeling good again.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Sayulita Mexico and the Mexi Log Fest

Walking in the street as if it were a sidewalk, we weave around the cars, trucks, motorcycles, and quads as they chatter along the cobblestone road. Colorful buildings in different shades of bright colors, masked in a thin layer of dust, creates what probably used to be a small fishing village into a small town that has broadened it's horizons to tourism.



Mid day surf excursion

Mornings with a view


I've come to Sayulita Mexico for several reasons. One is that one of my cousin's got married here, I'm also meeting my friends Chet and Karen (my friends I will be traveling with now) here who came for a wedding, and my other cousin Robin who has been living here for the past four years. I've been to Sayulita Mexico a couple times before, but have little memories of it since I was so young. Robin said that it probably has changed so much that I wouldn't recognize much of it anyways.

My cousin Robin who was excited upon my arrival wanted to go camping at a surf spot down south after our cousin's wedding. However, we decided to stay because the first Mexi Log Surf Contest, along with a film festival and concert headlined by the Dirty Heads was happening. The brainchild of a local surfer decided that it would be awesome to have a contest that hosted some of the best longboarders from around the world. 




Prior to the contest, the water was tense with the competitors practicing for the upcoming contest. It's extremely rare to have a a lineup of thirty talented surfers trying to get into position for the same wave. 

While there was a competitive vibe in the air, it was awesome, humbling, and inspiring to see some of the best surfers in the world compete. Not to mention Robin also competed and surfed with the style and grace that many surfers desire to have. She surfed extremely well but in her first heat got paired with some of the best surfers including world champion Lindsey Steinriede. Even though she didn't advance too far ahead we enjoyed relaxing and watching the contest over the next three days. 

Over the sound of the the announcers from the judges stand, it was awesome making new friends and watching the longboarders slide and dance across the water. Not to mention Chet and Karen are here! 

To get an idea of what longboarding is about, here is a great video of Alex Knost surfing.